Market Forces

The Age

Tuesday May 13, 2008

Carolyn Holbrook

One doesn't like to proclaim too loudly, in this thirsty age, the beauty of Melbourne's clear autumn weather but we've certainly had some cracking days, framed by cold mornings and nights. In the markets, you should be looking for mandarins, Victorian chestnuts and quinces, celeriac, parsnip and finally, some decent fennel bulbs for sautes, gratins and risotti.

Pork neck

Those people who lament the dry, flavourless nature of pork these days are probably cooking with the fillet, leg or loin. Pork neck may traditionally be the poor cousin in Australia but in many Asian countries, neck is valued for its sweet flavour and the threads of fat running through it, which baste the meat during cooking and keep it deliciously tender and juicy. Pork neck is usually sold as a large chunk, ready for roasting, though it can be cut into individual steaks, or used in curries, stews and braises. Pound together a mixture of garlic, fennel seed, rosemary, bay leaf, chilli, salt, black peppercorns and lemon zest, then mix in some olive oil. Cut slits in the meat and stuff the mixture inside and then roast. Slices of this porchetta-style dish make a fine autumn match with sauteed fennel and celeriac and potato mash. Pork neck is commonly used for Chinese-style barbecue pork, and takes up the flavours of a char sui marinade beautifully. Or, you could ask the butcher to mince some pork neck and use it to stuff wontons, dumplings or spring rolls. Asian and continental butchers are good sources of pork neck.

Feijoas

Louis Glowinski many years ago was inspired by unusual fruits when his parents discovered a small green, egg-shaped fruit growing in their backyard. "Once convinced of the edibility of their find they were delighted with the flavour, and so was I," writes Glowinski in The Complete Book of Fruit Growing in Australia. The feijoa tree is native to South America but grows well in Melbourne. Fragrant feijoas are sometimes called pineapple guavas and their delicious flavour resembles pineapple as well as strawberry, passionfruit and lemon. They are ready to eat when they are slightly soft to the touch. Halve the fruit and scoop out the creamy-coloured flesh with a spoon. You can make jam, or poach the peeled fruit with sugar and cinnamon or vanilla bean. -- CAROLYN HOLBROOK

© 2008 The Age

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